Brass, Copper, Zinc Alloy and Other Base Metals in Jewellery

Underneath the plating and stones, every piece of imitation jewellery has a base. That base metal affects how a piece is made, how heavy it feels, how its finish ages and, sometimes, how your skin responds. This guide compares the most common base metals so you can understand what you are buying.

Why base metals are used

Precious metals are expensive. Base metals are affordable, widely available and easy to cast, stamp, solder and plate. They allow designers to create intricate traditional and contemporary designs at accessible prices.

Brass

What it is: an alloy of copper and zinc. Proportions vary, which affects colour and hardness.

Why it is popular:

• Warm, golden colour even before plating
• Casts fine details well, ideal for traditional designs
• Solders and plates well
• Reasonably durable

Watch-outs:

• Tarnishes over time if unprotected
• When plating wears, exposed brass can leave dark or green marks on skin, especially with sweat
• Some brass alloys can contain small amounts of other metals; composition varies by manufacturer

Brass is the backbone of much Indian imitation jewellery, including many kundan-style, temple and gold-plated designs.

Copper

What it is: a soft, reddish metal.

Why it is used:

• Very easy to shape, hammer and wire-wrap
• Good base for plating and for oxidised and antique finishes
• Popular in handmade and artisanal jewellery

Watch-outs:

• Tarnishes readily, developing brown, black or green tones
• Can leave a harmless green mark on skin when it reacts with sweat and moisture
• Soft, so thin pieces can bend

Zinc alloy

What it is: zinc combined with other metals (often aluminium, magnesium or copper). Many fashion pieces described simply as "alloy" use zinc-based alloys.

Why it is used:

• Low cost
• Low melting point, so it can be die-cast into intricate shapes quickly
• Takes plating

Watch-outs:

• Less strong than brass; thin parts can snap
• Quality varies significantly between manufacturers
• Once plating wears, the surface can dull or corrode

White metal and pewter-type alloys

"White metal" is a broad term for light-coloured, low-melting alloys used for detailed castings. Composition varies. Historically, some alloys contained lead; responsible manufacturers follow the regulations of the markets they sell into. The European Union, for example, restricts certain substances, including nickel release and lead in some consumer articles, under REACH Annex XVII.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is increasingly used for everyday fashion jewellery because it resists rust and tarnish. See Stainless Steel Fashion Jewellery.

Aluminium

Very light and easy to colour through anodising. Used in large, lightweight statement pieces, though it scratches more easily.

Comparison table

Base metals and skin

Some base metals and alloys may contain nickel, the most common metal allergen. Mayo Clinic lists jewellery among common sources of nickel exposure, and the American Academy of Dermatology highlights earrings and earring backs specifically. Nickel content varies by alloy and product, so:

• Ask sellers about the materials in parts that touch skin.
• Be cautious of claims like "nickel-free" without supporting details.
• Stop wearing anything that causes a reaction.

See Nickel and Other Metal Sensitivities.

Caring for base-metal jewellery

• Keep dry; moisture accelerates tarnishing.
• Store in airtight pouches or boxes with anti-tarnish strips or silica gel.
• Wipe after each wear to remove sweat and oils.
• Avoid harsh cleaners and abrasive polishes that can strip plating.

See How to Prevent Jewellery Tarnishing.

Key takeaway

The base metal is the foundation of every imitation piece. Brass offers warmth and detail, copper offers workability, zinc alloy offers affordability, and stainless steel offers durability. Knowing which you are buying helps you set expectations and care for each piece correctly.

Sources and further reading

• Mayo Clinic — Nickel allergy: Symptoms and causes
• American Academy of Dermatology — Nickel allergy: How to avoid exposure and reduce symptoms
• European Chemicals Agency — Substances restricted under REACH (Annex XVII)

Written by

HANSINI369 Editorial Team

Our editors research jewellery types, materials, care and craft, and review guides when materials, standards or recommendations change. Read our editorial policy.