Jhumka Earrings: History, Styles and How to Wear Them

The jhumka is one of the most recognisable and best-loved earring styles from India. Its gentle bell shape, swaying movement and soft chime of beads make it feel festive and graceful at once. Today jhumkas are worn everywhere, from college corridors to wedding mandaps, in sizes and finishes for every taste. This guide explains the anatomy of a jhumka, its many styles and how to wear one beautifully.

What is a jhumka?

A jhumka (also called jhumki, especially for smaller versions) is an earring with three main parts:

1. The top: a stud, flower, disc or decorative motif that sits on the earlobe.
2. The connector: a small link or chain that lets the bell swing.
3. The bell or dome: a hollow, bell-shaped drop, often decorated and finished with pearls, beads or tiny bells along the rim.

The bell shape lets the earring move as you walk and talk, catching light and drawing attention to the face.

A tradition carried forward

Bell-shaped earrings have long been part of Indian jewellery traditions, appearing in many regional styles and in the decorative arts. Over time, the jhumka has been reinterpreted in gold, silver, enamel and, increasingly, imitation materials that make it accessible for everyday celebrations. Indian jewellery techniques such as kundan setting and enamelling, documented by the Victoria and Albert Museum in Mughal-era goldsmithing, have inspired many decorative jhumka designs.

Popular jhumka styles

Gold-plated traditional jhumkas

Gold-toned brass with filigree, granulation-style dots and pearl fringes. Classic for festivals and weddings.

Antique-finish jhumkas

A matte, slightly aged gold finish that suits temple-inspired and heritage outfits. See Antique-Finish Jewellery.

Oxidised jhumkas

Darkened silver-toned metal with folk and tribal-inspired motifs. Perfect with cotton sarees, kurtas, handloom fabrics and even denim. See Oxidised Silver-Style Jewellery.

Kundan-style and polki-inspired jhumkas

Glass stones set in gold-toned frames on the top and dome, giving a regal look for weddings and receptions.

Pearl jhumkas

Domes covered with artificial pearls, often with a coloured centre stone, for a soft, elegant effect.

Meenakari jhumkas

Colourful enamel domes in pink, green, blue and red, ideal for matching outfits. See Meenakari Jewellery.

Temple jhumkas

South Indian-inspired designs with motifs such as lotuses and peacocks, often in antique gold tones. See Temple Jewellery.

Contemporary and lightweight jhumkas

Minimal domes, geometric bells and small jhumkis designed for office wear and Indo-western outfits.

Layered and multi-tier jhumkas

Two or three bells stacked vertically, or a jhumka hanging from a chandbali, for dramatic bridal looks.

Choosing the right size

Larger jhumkas often weigh more. If you plan to wear them for hours, choose hollow domes or designs with an ear chain (sometimes called a sahara or kaan chain) that loops over the ear to share the weight. Read Lightweight vs Heavy Earrings.

How to wear jhumkas

With sarees

Jhumkas are a natural partner for sarees. For silk sarees, choose gold-toned, kundan-style or temple jhumkas; for cotton and handloom, oxidised jhumkas look effortless.

With salwar suits and anarkalis

Medium jhumkas balance the length of a kurta. If your dupatta is heavily embroidered, keep the jhumkas simple.

With lehengas

Go bigger and more ornate, especially for evening functions. If you are wearing a heavy choker, pick jhumkas that echo its stones.

With Western and Indo-western outfits

Small oxidised or pearl jhumkas add personality to a white shirt, a simple dress or a denim jacket.

Hairstyles that show them off

Buns, braids and half-up styles let jhumkas swing freely and stay visible in photos.

What to pair with jhumkas

• Minimal neck: with large jhumkas, a bare neckline or a fine chain keeps the look balanced.
• Matching set: with medium jhumkas, a matching necklace creates a coordinated traditional look.
• Bangles: echo the jhumka's metal tone and stones on the wrist.

See Matching Jewellery with Outfits.

Caring for jhumkas

Jhumkas have many small parts: pearls, beads, links and stones. Care for them gently:

• Wipe with a soft, dry cloth after wearing; do not soak.
• Store each pair separately, ideally in a box or padded compartment, so domes are not crushed and fringes do not tangle.
• Keep perfume, hairspray and moisture away.
• Check links and pearl fringes regularly and repair loose parts promptly.

See How to Clean Imitation Jewellery Safely and Loose Stones and Broken Clasps.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a jhumka and a chandbali?

A jhumka has a bell-shaped dome; a chandbali has a crescent-moon shape. Some designs combine both. See the chandbali guide.

Are jhumkas suitable for the office?

Yes. Small jhumkis in gold-toned, oxidised or pearl finishes look elegant with formal Indian and Indo-western wear.

How do I stop heavy jhumkas from drooping?

Use a larger earring back, an ear chain support, or choose a lighter hollow design.

Key takeaway

The jhumka is a timeless celebration of movement and craft. Choose the size for the occasion, the finish for the outfit, and support for heavy pairs, and your jhumkas will feel as good as they look.

Sources and further reading

• Victoria and Albert Museum — Traditional Indian jewellery making

Written by

HANSINI369 Editorial Team

Our editors research jewellery types, materials, care and craft, and review guides when materials, standards or recommendations change. Read our editorial policy.