Kundan and Polki-Inspired Necklaces: A Buyer's and Styling Guide

Kundan and polki are names that evoke royal Indian jewellery: glowing stones, gold settings and intricate craft. In imitation jewellery, "kundan-style" and "polki-inspired" necklaces recreate this regal look with glass stones, plated metal and modern manufacturing. This guide explains what these terms mean, how to judge quality and how to style these necklaces beautifully.

Kundan and polki: the historic techniques

Kundan

Historically, kundan is a technique of setting stones using very pure gold. The Victoria and Albert Museum explains that kundan was used by Mughal court goldsmiths from the late 16th century, that it can hold stones of almost any size or shape, and that because the gold is soft, goldsmiths can set gems directly into delicate enamelled surfaces.

Polki

Polki traditionally refers to uncut, unpolished or minimally cut diamonds, often with flat surfaces and natural shapes, set in gold. Polki pieces have a soft, antique glow rather than the bright sparkle of faceted diamonds.

For a detailed comparison of the traditions, see Kundan, Polki and Meenakari: Key Differences.

What "kundan-style" and "polki-inspired" mean in imitation jewellery

In imitation jewellery, these words describe the look, not the original materials:

• Kundan-style: glass stones (often foil-backed for reflection) set in gold-toned frames, typically brass or copper alloy with plating. Settings may use metal rims, adhesive or both.
• Polki-inspired: flat, irregular or uncut-look stones (glass, crystal or simulants) designed to evoke polki, often with an antique or matte gold finish.

Honest sellers use terms like "kundan-style", "polki-look" or "imitation kundan". Be cautious of descriptions implying real gold or diamonds when the price clearly suggests otherwise.

Popular necklace designs

• Kundan-style chokers with pearl or bead drops
• Long rani haar with layered kundan-style elements
• Polki-inspired collar necklaces with an antique finish
• Kundan-meena combinations, with enamel on the reverse
• Lightweight kundan-style pendant sets for smaller occasions

What to check when buying

Stone setting

• Stones should sit flush and secure, with no gaps or lifting edges.
• Check for glue residue or cloudiness around stones.
• Stones should be clean and reflect light evenly.

Frame and finish

• Even gold tone across front, back and edges.
• Neat, smooth outlines around each stone.
• For antique finishes, uniform matte or aged tone rather than patchy colouring.

Drops and strands

• Pearl and bead drops should be strongly attached, with closed jump rings.
• Strands should hang evenly.

Back and closure

• Many traditional pieces have a decorated or enamelled reverse; check it is neat.
• Dori (tie cords) should be strong; hooks should close securely.

Weight

Large kundan-style necklaces can be heavy. Check weight for long events.

See How to Evaluate Plating and Stone Settings.

Styling kundan and polki-inspired necklaces

For brides

A kundan-style choker layered with a longer rani haar is a timeless bridal combination. Match earrings and maang tikka, and keep stone colours consistent. See Bridal Jewellery Styling.

For wedding guests and festivals

A single statement necklace with coordinated earrings is enough. Choose stone colours that echo your outfit.

Colour pairing ideas

Necklines

Deep round or sweetheart blouses and off-shoulder lehenga cholis suit chokers and layered sets. With high necks, choose a longer haar.

Caring for kundan and polki-inspired pieces

These designs often use foil-backed glass and adhesives, so moisture is their enemy.

• Never soak or wash them.
• Wipe gently with a soft, dry cloth.
• Store flat in a box with cotton or soft lining, away from humidity.
• Keep perfume, hairspray and creams away.
• Re-secure loose stones promptly. See Loose Stones and Broken Clasps.

Key takeaway

Kundan-style and polki-inspired necklaces bring heritage elegance within reach. Understand that they evoke historic techniques rather than replicate their materials, check settings and finishes carefully, and protect them from moisture to keep their glow.

Sources and further reading

• Victoria and Albert Museum — Traditional Indian jewellery making

Written by

HANSINI369 Editorial Team

Our editors research jewellery types, materials, care and craft, and review guides when materials, standards or recommendations change. Read our editorial policy.