Kundan Jewellery Explained: History, Technique and Kundan-Style Pieces

Kundan is one of the most celebrated names in Indian jewellery. It evokes regal chokers, glowing stones framed in gold and bridal sets passed down through generations. In imitation jewellery, kundan-style pieces bring that grandeur to weddings and festivals at an accessible price. This guide explains what kundan really is, how kundan-style jewellery is made and how to choose and care for it.

What is kundan?

Kundan is a technique, not a stone. Historically, it refers to a method of setting gemstones using highly refined, soft gold. The Victoria and Albert Museum explains that Mughal court goldsmiths used kundan from the late 16th century, that it can hold stones of almost any size or shape, and that the softness of the gold allows stones to be set directly into enamelled surfaces or into engraved materials such as nephrite jade and rock crystal. Each stage of the work is traditionally handled by a specialist craftsperson.

Historic kundan pieces often combine:

• Gemstones or glass set with refined gold
• Enamelling (meenakari) on the reverse or inner surfaces, creating decoration visible mainly to the wearer
• Pearls and bead drops

See Meenakari Jewellery and Kundan, Polki and Meenakari: Key Differences.

What is kundan-style imitation jewellery?

Kundan-style imitation jewellery recreates the look using different materials and methods:

Honest product descriptions use terms such as "kundan-style", "imitation kundan" or "kundan look".

Why kundan-style stones glow

Kundan-style stones are usually flat or lightly faceted glass with a reflective foil backing. The foil reflects light back through the glass, giving a warm, steady glow rather than the sharp sparkle of faceted CZ. This is also why moisture is a risk: water reaching the foil can cause clouding or dark spots.

Popular kundan-style pieces

• Chokers with pearl or bead drops
• Long haars and rani haars
• Jhumkas and chandbalis
• Maang tikkas, matha pattis and passas
• Bangles and kadas
• Haath phool and rings

How to judge quality

1. Stone fit: stones sit flush with neat, continuous frames.
2. No clouding: stones look clear with even reflection, no dark patches.
3. Clean edges: no glue overflow around stones.
4. Even plating across front, back and edges.
5. Secure drops: pearl and bead strands firmly attached.
6. Neat reverse: a clean back shows careful workmanship.
7. Comfortable weight and strong dori.

See How to Evaluate Plating and Stone Settings.

Styling kundan-style jewellery

Bridal

A kundan-style choker layered with a long haar, matching earrings and a maang tikka is a classic bridal look, especially with red, maroon, pink and gold outfits. See Bridal Jewellery Styling.

Wedding guests and festivals

Choose one statement piece: either a kundan-style necklace set or statement earrings, not both at maximum scale.

Fusion

Kundan-style earrings with a solid-colour gown or a saree with a modern blouse create a graceful Indo-western look.

Colour combinations

• White stones with green accents on red outfits
• White stones and pearls with pastels
• Multicolour stones with ivory or gold outfits

Caring for kundan-style jewellery

• Never soak, rinse or steam-clean. Water can damage foil and loosen adhesive.
• Wipe gently with a soft, dry cloth or brush.
• Store flat in a lined box with cotton or tissue between pieces.
• Keep away from humidity; consider silica gel sachets in storage boxes.
• Put perfume on first, let it dry, then wear jewellery.
• Repair loose stones promptly before they fall out.

See Jewellery Care Mistakes to Avoid.

Key takeaway

Kundan is a centuries-old setting technique; kundan-style imitation jewellery brings its regal look to modern celebrations. Look for clean settings and even finishes, style it as the centrepiece, and keep it dry to preserve its glow.

Sources and further reading

• Victoria and Albert Museum — Traditional Indian jewellery making
• Victoria and Albert Museum — Jewellery collections

Written by

HANSINI369 Editorial Team

Our editors research jewellery types, materials, care and craft, and review guides when materials, standards or recommendations change. Read our editorial policy.