Enamel and Meenakari Finishes: Fired vs Cold Enamel

Enamel adds colour to metal in a way no other finish can: smooth, glossy and vivid, from tiny floral studs to fully enamelled bangles. In Indian jewellery, enamel work is known as meenakari. But not all "enamel" in fashion jewellery is the same. This guide explains the different types, how they wear and how to care for them.

What is enamel?

In its traditional form, enamel is powdered glass fused to metal with heat. The result is a hard, glassy, colourful surface. In fashion jewellery, the word is also used for coloured coatings that look similar but are made differently.

For the cultural history of Indian enamelling, see Meenakari Jewellery. The Victoria and Albert Museum notes that Mughal goldsmiths added enamel to the backs and inner surfaces of ornaments and that enamelling was probably introduced to the subcontinent from Europe.

Types of enamel finishes

Fired (vitreous) enamel

Powdered glass applied to metal and fired in a kiln at high temperature
Hard, glossy and colourfast
Can chip if struck, as glass can
Found in traditional meenakari and higher-quality enamelled jewellery

Cold enamel (epoxy resin enamel)

A two-part resin with pigments, applied into recesses and cured without high-temperature firing
Glossy, colourful and affordable
Softer than fired enamel; more prone to scratches and wear
Very common in fashion jewellery

Lacquer and paint

Coloured lacquer or paint applied to metal
Least durable; can scratch, chip or fade
Often used for bright, inexpensive pieces

Hard enamel vs soft enamel (badges and pins)

You may see these terms in pin and charm jewellery. "Hard enamel" is polished flat and level with the metal; "soft enamel" sits slightly below metal lines, giving a textured feel.

How to identify enamel types

Clue	Fired enamel	Cold enamel / epoxy	Lacquer
Surface	Glassy, very hard	Glossy, slightly softer	Thin coating
Feel	Cool, smooth	Smooth, may feel warmer	Smooth, thin
Scratch behaviour	Resists scratches; may chip	Scratches more easily	Scratches and chips easily
Price	Higher	Moderate	Low

Sellers do not always specify the type. If durability matters, ask.

Quality signs for any enamel

Colours stay within their metal outlines
No bubbles, pits, dust or streaks
Even gloss (or even matte if intended)
No chips at edges
Neat finishing on reversible pieces

Styling enamel jewellery

Colour matching: pick enamel colours from your outfit.
Festive looks: meenakari jhumkas, bangles and pendants.
Everyday: small enamel studs and charms.
Contrast: one enamel colour against a neutral outfit.

See Jewellery Colour Coordination.

Caring for enamel finishes

Protect from impact: fired enamel can chip; cold enamel can dent or scratch.
Avoid chemicals: perfume, sanitiser and household cleaners can dull cold enamel and lacquer.
Do not soak: water can seep under coatings and affect plating beneath.
Wipe gently with a soft, dry cloth.
Store separately so harder pieces do not scratch enamel.
Avoid heat and direct sunlight for resin-based enamel, which can yellow over time.

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Key takeaway

Enamel brings colour to jewellery in many forms, from kiln-fired glass to modern resin. Know which type you have, protect it from knocks and chemicals, and it will keep its vivid colour for longer.

Sources and further reading

Victoria and Albert Museum — Traditional Indian jewellery making

Written by

HANSINI369 Editorial Team

Our editors research jewellery types, materials, care and craft, and review guides when materials, standards or recommendations change. Read our editorial policy.